Traditions run deep on the remote island of Tanna, where ancient kastom (custom) thrives beneath a rumbling volcano. Here’s where to experience it.
Tour a kastom village
Kastom (custom) villages are Ni-Vanuatu communities that intentionally preserve and practice ancestral ways of life. Tanna is home to numerous kastom villages, several of which invite tourists to experience their largely subsistence lifestyle.
During tourist visits, kastom villagers typically don traditional grass skirts and nambas (penis sheaths) now mainly reserved for cultural ceremonies. Everything else you’ll see and experience in kastom villages such as Imaio, Lowinio and Yakel – from fire-making and traditional food preparation to kastom dances – is totally authentic. Visitors can show respect by dressing conservatively and seeking permission before snapping photographs.
Visit the John Frum village
Said to be inspired by an American WWII serviceman known as John (from America) who assisted Tannese elders imprisoned for practising their kastom traditions, the John Frum faith is a unique blend of kastom traditions and Western influences. Today, the village of Lamakara in Sulphur Bay is particularly faithful to the John Frum movement, whose followers believe the messianic spirit of John Frum will bring wealth and prosperity to the island.
In Lamakara you can chat with locals about their beliefs and visit a house painted with murals telling the religion’s origin story. Visit on a Friday to experience the marathon singing and dancing rituals that can last for up to 12 hours, or time your trip for the annual John Frum Day festival on 15 February, when devotees wear improvised military attire, paint ‘USA’ on their chests and perform military-style parades.
Learn the legend of Yasur
Mount Yasur isn’t just a volcano, but also a sacred entity in kastom culture – a god-like figure who once roamed the island in the form of a man. When you visit the famously active volcano – a quintessential Tanna experience – ask your Ni-Vanuatu guide or accommodation host about the legend of Yasur, and how you can respect this sacred place as a visitor.
Catch a cultural festival or ceremony
Tanna celebrates numerous festivals, deeply rooted in kastom, throughout the year. These include the Yanarawia Festival (usually in May) marking the first yam harvest in the island’s southern region with a huge offering of crops, and the Toka Festival, a solidarity-building event that takes place every three-to-four years when island chiefs deem conditions favourable.
A major cultural event marking a boy’s transition into manhood, circumcision ceremonies peak between July and September. These days, the operation is usually undertaken by trained healthcare workers, with the ritual culminating in a massive, vibrant celebration where boys are paraded back into the village amid traditional dancing and elaborate feasts. Visitors are welcome to join in.
Written by Sarah Reid